Why everyone wants to copy this 1981 Princess Diana look in 2026

The then Prince Charles and Diana, Princess of Wales, at Balmoral in 1981, where her checked tweed ensemble became an enduring fashion inspiration - WireImage/Anwar Hussein

When Bill Pashley was commissioned by Lady Diana Spencer to make a tweed suit for her honeymoon trousseau in 1981, he could never have imagined that, 45 years later, it would be inspiring one of the biggest trends of the season.

And yet, from the high street to the most exclusive designer labels, there are currently options for getting versions of the Princess Diana checked bomber jacket and skirt look at every budget.

It’s easy to see why the image of Diana remains a fresh reference for designer mood boards. Posing with the then Prince Charles beside the river Dee on the Balmoral Estate, her co-ord combines tradition and relaxed modernity – especially because she styled what could be a staid ensemble with bare legs and ballet pumps.

Indeed Pashley had made the new Princess’s suit in two sizes. She elected to wear the bigger one to provide more flexibility for all the shooting and fishing she’d be doing in it – Coco Chanel, who became enamoured by tweed during her relationship with the Duke of Westminster and went on to create her signature tweed jacket in tribute, would have undoubtedly approved. That decision also gave the look a sense of casual effortlessness which might not have been achieved with something more trussed-up. That it still looks sophisticated today is no mean feat.

“It’s an epic look, she’s radiant,” says Hannah Teare, editor-at-large of Tatler. “Even though she was shy at that time, she eclipses him. His look is very traditional and so is hers in a way but there’s this element which feels very mod or even punk.”

At a time when there’s a preoccupation with the heritage British aesthetic, whether that stems from our national obsession with Claudia Winkleman’s outfits on The Traitors or a romanticising of the old-money, rural-escape connotations of checks and tweeds, it’s remarkable that an outfit worn almost half a century ago can still feel like an exciting interpretation.

It’s also an ensemble which still has royal pedigree. In late October, the Duchess of Edinburgh wore designer Gabriela Hearst’s double-tweed skirt and jacket (which cost almost £3,000 combined) during a visit to Finland, while earlier this week, a new portrait of the Princess of Wales appeared in Country Life magazine showing Catherine wearing a Ralph Lauren tweed jacket with an Emilia Wickstead checked skirt.

The Duchess of Edinburgh embraced the heritage trend in a Gabriela Hearst tweed jacket and skirt during a visit to Finland in October - KIMMO BRANDT/EPA/Shutterstock

Designers have been adding their own riffs on the traditional template – Prada’s Harrington jacket comes with a sleek leather collar, Massimo Dutti’s is a little longer than you might expect with statement pocket details and Barbour’s version has contrast sleeve and collar accents. Italian label Giuliva Heritage’s £1,750 version is the most faithful and is even called the “Diana”.

“When it comes to the Balmoral jacket we of course took inspiration from the iconic tweed bomber worn by Diana up at its namesake part of Scotland,” says Pip Durrell, founder of With Nothing Underneath (WNU) which has created a navy checked jacket with a matching trouser option.

With Nothing Underneath’s Balmoral bomber jacket takes inspiration from Diana’s 1981 honeymoon outfit, updating the look with a navy check - With Nothing Underneath

“For me, it’s the juxtaposition of a modern shape with a heritage cloth. Diana of course wore hers in the 1980s, making it particularly cool, but for the present day I wanted something more city appropriate – a wider check and a navy wool allowing it to be worn from country to town with ease.” Durrell has been wearing the bomber with WNU’s navy wide-leg Rampling trousers or jeans to dial down the “off to romp in the heather” vibes.

“Checks are a key part of our collection this season, and I particularly love the idea of wearing them together,” says Karen Peacock, co-founder and creative director of Albaray, where there are several bomber jacket and kilt co-ords available.

“Our checked bomber jacket and kilt create a modern take on heritage dressing, the silhouettes bring a freshness to the look. If you plan to wear them together, I would suggest keeping everything else simple. It’s about taking something familiar and giving it a new sense of ease. A little bit retro, but entirely modern, wearable and relevant for the season.”

The Princess of Wales wearing a tweed jacket and showcasing how to do countryside chic - Kensington Palace/Josh Shinner

While Diana may have provided the inspiration for this trend, Teare is adamant that it is brilliantly versatile. “You can be hipster or refined and make it work for every decade from teen to granny,” she says (having recently styled Harriet Phillips for a Hello! magazine shoot in a tweed suit with bold turquoise knitwear, Teare knows a thing or two about pepping up classics).

“I love it as a co-ord,” she continues. “I’d style it with flat loafers to give you that very premium Miu Miu or Prada look.”

If you do invest in the full jacket and kilt, there are myriad ways to get more bang for your buck. “What’s great about reverting to these classics is you can get the look for £8,000 or £59, obviously the quality will differ but the effect is similar,” Teare says. “Once you have both pieces though, you can do it in a very refined way or go more street. The Harrington jacket looks great with denim socks but you could also go for more of a French woman, Chloé feel by wearing it with camel palazzos.”

The most reassuring thing? Invest in these pieces now and they’re likely to remain relevant for decades to come, just as Diana’s have.

Recreate the look...

Clockwise from top left: ‘Charlie’ bomber jacket, £249, Baukjen; Chocolate gingham jacket, £110, Albaray; Chocolate gingham kilt, £99, Albaray; ‘Vicky’ skirt, £179, Baukjen

From left: ‘Thereza’ jacket, £1560, Gabriela Hearst at Net-a-Porter; ‘Wesley’ skirt, £1250, Gabriela Hearst at Net-a-Porter; ‘Diana’ jacket, £1750, Giuliva Heritage; Navy bomber jacket, £350, With Nothing Underneath; Navy checked trousers, £225, With Nothing Underneath

Clockwise from top left: Houndstooth bomber, £880, Bompard; ‘Joelle’ jacket, £199, Barbour; Leather collar jacket, £3200, Prada; Plaid bomber, £150, Massimo Dutti

Wear with...

Gold and diamond earrings, £133, DPT Antwerp; Flannel trousers, £179, Jigsaw; Cord cap, £90, Ralph Lauren; Loafers, £159, Whistles; Merino socks, £12, Pairs

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Source: Entertainment